For the show, I hollowed out a one-pound loaf of crusty bread to use as a serving container. You can also serve the stew on white rice or noodles or on soft polenta flavored with roasted winter squash puree. Here is a stew with deep, rich flavors. If you do not care for turnips, try potatoes. If you like parsnips, add them. I tend to follow the old adage "The colder it is outside, the thicker the stew." Since it is not often very cold in the Napa Valley, this stew does not coat the tongue. If you prefer a thicker stew, double the flour.
Cut the lamb loin in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces. The pieces should be fairly large so they do not get overcooked. Season well with salt, pepper and fennel spice. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot. Dust the lamb with 2 tablespoons of the flour. Add the lamb to the pan, spreading out the pieces so there is room around them. Do not move the pieces until moisture begins to show on the tops and they have browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Then turn the pieces to continue to brown, about 2 minutes longer. Do not overcook. The lamb should be medium-rare. Remove the meat to a large plate.
Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add the onions, carrots and turnips to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until the vegetables are well caramelized, about 10 minutes. Regulate the heat so the vegetables do not burn. Add the butter and continue to cook for another 2 minutes.
Dust the remaining 1 tablespoon flour over the contents of the pan, stir, and cook over medium heat for another minute. Add the wine, if using, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until reduced by half. Add the stock, return to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Skim off any foam that forms as the stock comes to a boil. Add the rosemary for the last few minutes. (The stew may be made to this point a day ahead. Refrigerate the liquids and meat separately. Do not freeze, or you will lose the freshness and texture of the meat.)
When ready to eat, bring the liquids to a boil. Return the meat to the pan, add the chard and parsley, and simmer for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Pour stew into bread bowl or serve in soup plates on top of cooked rice, noodles, or soft polenta.
Chef's Note: Dust meats or other ingredients just before cooking, or the flour will get gummy. The flour needs to cook for a few minutes to lose its raw flavor. It is important when adding liquids to a roux to stir while the mixture comes to a boil. Otherwise, the flour may stick to the bottom of the pan and scorch.
Butter in a roux serves to bind the flour, so it will not clump with the addition of liquid. Then, as the liquid heats, the butter melts and releases the flour into the liquid. The flour will go into suspension and thicken liquids at just below boiling, so you must bring your stew to a boil after an addition of flour or any ingredient dusted with flour.
